The chief and his wife went all out to treat me tonight. After a long day of travel back from Samoa to American Samoa, we showered and headed out to the east end of the island to Tisa's Barefoot Bar. It's a great spot, right on the beach, with an eclectic mix of tables, decks, sand, drinks, and setting the stage for an occasional umu (oven) feast. Everything--meats, starches, spices, bananas, etc.--is cooked on hot rocks in the ground, covered with banana leaves. We ate with our hands and cleaned up later. Good times.
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